What’s up my name is kamala Kiel and today I’m going to show you guys how to change oil at a monster speed 3 mine’s a 2013. So it’s the second generation but this is a pretty much the exact same procedure for Gen 2 and Gen 1 mazdaspeed3 is. Because the engines pretty much identical in both of them, so the first thing I did was get the car on jack stands. Then I actually was driving the car earlier, it’s always a good thing to have the car warmed up before you change the oil. It just helps I got solution deposits and the engine and help get all the crud out and it just actually drains a little a lot quicker that way.
So yeah we just get your car on backs and then the next thing we’re going to do is, I’m going to take this underbody panel off for mine, which is a 2013 like I said it actually has an access point for the oil filter and the drain plug is back here. And you can change the oil without taking this off but I know for the older models especially the first generation of the mazdaspeed3. They didn’t have those access points so I’m just going to take the underbody panel off anyways; and also just give you guys better visibility of how to do everything so I actually just finished doing the oil change and tire rotation.
I figured I’d just show you guys everything you’d need now to see you don’t get stuck halfway through realizing you don’t have all the necessary tools so as far as getting the car in the air to change the oil. I just had four jack stands Jack I had some wheel chocks which aren’t completely necessary. But it’s just for safety pretty much. And just have these wood planks that also helped for getting the car on jack stands; and then as far as tools well first of all you know you’re going to need oil so the Massa takes six US courts.
I got 5w30 fully synthetic. I just got that from Advance Auto Parts, and then you’re going to need a new oil filter. When I got this I just always use, I’ve always used the moss that OEM filter. And then every time I go get one, I just also asked them for a crush washer for the drain plug. And they just slip it in there most the time. Sometimes they’ll charge you for it, sometimes they won’t. Depends on the dealership and then the only other thing is, this is old drain bucket. I also got that from Advance Auto Parts.
And then once you’re done do with, your old change you can take that back over there, and dispose of it for free. They’ve never charged me for that; and I don’t think they will. Then also just have brake clean for cleaning off underneath after I change the oil in case things get messy. One of these just for putting the new oil in the car rags safety glasses and flashlight makes second things out easier. And as far as what you’ll do to change the oil after you get it on jack stands the first thing, you’re going to do is take the underbody panel off. Which I just have an electric gun for that. And it’s going to be ten millimeter screws. And then there’s also going to be two plastic rivets on the underbody panel as well. I just used the approach tool like this to get those off so then once you have that off. You’re going to just break the drain plug loose which I just have a normal 3/8 ratchet and a 17 millimeter socket and then when you’re going back on. with the drain plug, just use the normal torque wrench and torqued it 230 foot-pounds and then for your oil filter changing, that I just have a standard oil filter wrench and then going back on I just tighten it down by hand always done it that way never had an issue and then when if you were going to rotate the tires, as well like I do I do that every oil change I just have impact and your lug nuts are going to be a 21 millimeter and then for going back on I have a torque wrench for a hundred foot-pounds.
And then you know you use these needle nose pliers as well. Because when rotating my tires, I didn’t notice that one of them had a nail in there. So to check it before I actually pulled it out I just spray it with soapy water. And if there’re bubbles then you know it’s leaking air if there aren’t. Then you might be okay so that’s when I used the needle nose pliers to pull the screw out and thankfully it wasn’t long. Enough screw to actually puncture the tire and I was good then I just sprayed some or soapy water on there to make sure so uh yeah that’s pretty much everything you’re going to need for changing the oil.
Every time I’m under the car, I put safety glasses on, I don’t always wear safety glasses but when you’re underneath the car that’s more likely when someone’s going to fall on your eyes. So it’s just a good idea unless you don’t care about some getting your eyes. So all these bolts that are holding this underbody panel on are just ten millimeters, so I’ll just fit those off and then the only other thing once you get all those 10 millimeter screws out; it looks like there’s just some it looks like this is – these plastic rivet pieces on each side, so I’ll just pop those out so in the UM on the left and right. They’re kind of like tucked under another plastic piece; just kind of like pull that to the side pop it off come off. So I just took the underbody panel off, like you guys saw the car has been sitting here for a while. So I’m actually just going to run it again. Just to get it warm warmed up again. So just take the car out of first if you had it in first while we let it warm up. I guess pop the hood while waiting for that. I’m going to let the car warm up a little bit before actually drain the oil. So I just shut the car off; just had it running for a little bit to let the anything warm up so before we drain the oil just take off the oil fill cap up here. That’s just going to I mean you can drain the oil without taking that off because I have forgotten before when working on cars. But if you take it off it’s going to drain a lot more quickly. And I don’t know possibly more completely so uh let’s run to the car. I have my old drain bucket and the drain plug is literally just
Right on the back of the oil pan and it’s a 17 millimeter socket and I just have a 3/8 ratchet it’s to break it loose.
So I’m just leaving the old drain out right now before I I’m going to like. Put the drain plug back in before I do the oil filter. Because the plastic drain bucket I have isn’t really big enough to collect oil for both of them. But this is the old filter that you’re going to need that’s the part number there. I just get it from Mazda because also when you do go to the dealer it’s easier to also get. I just always ask him for a crush washer for the drain plug I think these are super important the tightening torque for the drain plug is 23 to 30 foot pounds. So it’s pretty important to have one of these when you were torquing it down. Because it crushes this when you tighten it to spec and if you don’t have one of these then you’re putting a lot of stress on your threads of your drain plug and the threads in your oil pan when you tighten it down to spec so in. my opinion it’s pretty important to have one of these. I don’t know if there’s you can buy them aftermarket you might so the next thing we do is just change that on the drain plug and we’ll tighten that back up. So before I put the drain plug back in, I always like to just wipe down the surface of the oil pan. Where it’s starting into just to get all the any crud off of; there might be and then I always just thread the drain plug in by hand before tightening it down.
So now that I got the drain plug threaded in my hand just torque it down. I know I said, the spec is 23 to 30 I I’m going to torque it down to 30. I just I like going to the higher end of torque specs, just to make sure things are on there tight. So now we, we drain the oil got the drain plug back in there. Tighten it down to spec so now we’ll just change the oil filter. To get this off, I just have a standard oil filter wrench. So I usually just loosen them up and let the oil drain out first usually a little bit in there. So before I go on with the new oil filter, I just like to take this out of the box. And what I’ll do is I’ll just dip my finger in some of the new oil, and just coat the surface of this with it. That’s just uh I don’t know I guess it’s just a good practice to do that way.
when you dry the surface of the oil foot, where the oil filter screws on and then, if this is dry it can just cause the gasket to like kind of bind up when you’re tightening it down; so it’s good to just put a little oil in there to have a little lubrication so when you screw it down all the way, the gaskets laying flat on the oil filter housing surface. It’s the same thing with the oil filter when you look at the water filter housing surface. There’s its just dirty and cruddy so I always just like to wipe it down with a rag before I go on with the new oil filter. And then just screw your new oil filter on. I always screw these on my hand; I mean it looks like there is, I can adapter, you can buy to go on here and I guess you could look up the spec for it but with all filters like these, I’ve always just tighten them down by hand. So the last thing I like to do before putting oil in the car is I just have brake clean. I mean there’s not a lot of oil here, but I just like to clean off. Or any oil was so that way when we put oil in the car and start it just to run oil through the oil filter and everything it’s pretty easy to see if there’s any leaks and what not.
So I just spray down the back here where the old drain plug goes. And then I just spray down and wipe down all around where the oil filter housing is so that way when we start the car, it’s really simple and easy to see if there’s a leak; which the other thing is just make sure you know double gasket the oil filter. It’s pretty rare for the old gasket to stay on there. In most cases it’s a, you know the Lola hasn’t been changed and extremely long time so but just always check for that. It’s pretty obvious if old gaskets get stuck on there so now. We’ll just add a wall to the car and then run it and check the oil level, so this engine takes six US courts. I just get my oil from Advance Auto Parts car takes 5w30. It actually doesn’t call for fully synthetic but I always put fully synthetic especially since it has a turbocharger. So yeah I just get one of the big jugs which is five quarts and then also just you just get extra single quart jug. And that’s all you need so once you get all the oil in the car. And put your wool cap back on you can check the oil before you start the car as well. I mean, one has the right amount of oil but this is a general good practice to check it before you start the car so for accurate readings. I always take the dipstick out first wipe it down then put it back and check it. And it’s above max right now, and when I run the car and have oil go through the old filter and recheck it it’s usually right at max because the oil filter does hold a little bit of oil itself.
So that’s the next thing, we’ll do is just start the car and then come back and recheck the oil level. Before you start the car, just make sure it’s in neutral and then don’t forget to like put your oil cap on or anything like that okay. I usually just let the car run for about a minute, just to give the old good amount of time to just run through the engine and the wool filter and everything. and then we’ll just recheck the dipstick make sure there’s no leaks underneath the car at the drain plug, or the old filter and then we’re pretty much good to put the underbody panel back on; and get the car off jack stands if that’s all you’re going to do. I was also going to rotate the tires as well I um I’ve had this car since it was brand new it only had 50 miles and I’ve changed the oil every 5,000 miles, since I’ve had it and it’s got 65,000 miles now for these cars; that’s a good amount of mileage to do especially with the if you’re using fully synthetic at every oil change. And I’ve actually rotated the tires that every all change as well. It’s just a good idea if you want your all four tires to wear evenly. I guess you could do it every other oil change if you’re doing it more like frequently. But I just stick with the five thousand mile rule and it’s worked out pretty well for me. So I’ll let the car run for about a minute now. We’ll again csy like the holes all about all over the place, that’s why you take it out and wipe it down then put it back in for an accurate reading.
So now the oil is literally right at the max mark. So that’s good, so now the last thing to do is just get the underbody panel back on. Before I did this, I need one of my flashlights. I just look over everything make sure nothing looks off, especially would like the suspension components. I pretty much looked all along the car since you’re not taking it to someone to change the oil, which they would do that look over the whole car for you. It’s a good idea to just do that yourself just to make sure there’s a nothing broken; so you’re not driving around the road with anything dangerous going on. So there’s these little hook parts in the front, here you just want to get it over the little the tab, right there, you just want to get this over that slide that over there. And then with back here as well you just want to get this part underneath here. and then the only other thing is there’s actually this little if you can see this little tab here it actually locks into this piece, so that snaps in right there. And it’s also the so you can see you’re just going to have your chins here those plastic rivets there tense here. And then, same thing you know, just slide this over this with this part on the outside; you have the two other chins and then there’s that um clip on this side that snaps in as well. I always like to just put all my screws in by hand first because I’ve noticed that if you just start putting on in one by one, and tightening them all the way down that sometimes when you get to the opposite corner of the underbody panel, you can’t line it up to thread it in and then you got to go back and undo all the screws. So it’s just a good idea to just thread them all in first then just go around and zip them all down. so now that I’ve got all the ten millimeters screwed in by hand I’m just going to put these plastic rivets back in, so they come apart you can put this part in first. Then push the other part in put that part in first and then that pushes in that part just pushes in, now we’ve got everything in and it’s being held up by all the screws. We can just zip them down as far as the little change goes after you get that underbody panel back on you’re all good to go. All you got to do is just get the car off jack stands.
I think I’m saying I mentioned I was going to do is just rotate the tires because I do that every all change so I’m just going to take care of that now. So y’all can stay tuned if you want to see how I do it; and then maybe do it yourself when it comes to rotating your tires, there are a few things I guess you should just know. I mean if you have a mazdaspeed3, then you should from the factory have the same size tire at all four corners; so just call that a square setup but you can always just double check it should just be 225 all around. And then the other thing is I always rotate the tires front to back some people like to do like a crisscross pattern or even like mix it up like just rotate the rears straight up; but across the fronts when going to the back or vice-versa I’ve never done that.
I just prefer rotating each side, the same way front to back and then for me. I actually have to do that because I have directional tires, so they have to go in the same direction, so there’s really no other way for me to rotate them; but I also just like doing that because when you change the direction of the tires even if it doesn’t say it has to go in a certain direction, that usually causes more tire noise, so it’s a good idea. If you want to prevent that just to keep the tires going in the same direction that you put them on when they were brand new. And so by doing that just rotate them front to back; so then another nice thing when you’re rotating your tires when you’re rolling them to the back. It’s this guy yeah, this is tech. make sure there’s no nails or anything crazy going on. And then also the other nice thing is, once you got the wheels off, you can just inspect your brakes just check the thickness of your pads and everything.
And you can just get better access to check all the suspension components, making sure nothing got damaged or anything when I was rolling this, one of the front I actually didn’t notice, there’s a little nail in; there so what you can do is just spray it with soapy water and see if it’s leaking. So usually it starts bubbling if it’s leaking which doesn’t like it looked like it is. so I’m going to try and pull it out and hope for the best so to get it out I just have some needle nose pliers; and see it’s not super long and after I get the nail out. I’ll just spray the where it was again with soapy water I got pretty lucky with that so when you’re putting the wheels back on. Just be careful not to hit any other studs too hard. You don’t want to mess up any of the threads so I’ll get it on there and then to hold it in place.
I’ll just put thread one lug nut on at the very bottom does ,that’ll prevent it from moving at all if you put it at the top the bottom can still swing out, so I just like putting one at the bottom there and then I just thread all my lug nuts on by hand. Does that way you avoid cross threading anything. and then the last thing to do before I put the wheels on like I have said earlier, I just go around and check the brake pads it’s easier to see him with the wheel . And then just look around the suspension components and everything; so then once you’re done with that I’m just put the wheels on; and then I just have a torque stick. To work with them to 100 foot pounds, I think the spec might be a little bit less. But I’ve always just done 100 and it works out fine because most of the times people are tightening them down with without any torque stick at all. So I just go in a diagonal pattern. I’ll do the bottom here, here and here. So the just so it goes on evenly then once I do that. I’ll actually just go around in a circle one more time, just to like there’s a double check just to make sure we’re all tightened down and that’s it pretty much just do that for all four wheels and you’re done rotating the tires.
See ya, that’s how you change the oil and rotate the tires on the monster speed 3. Hope this was helpful to anybody. Forgot to tell you guys, so after you rotate your tires, if it’s not all-wheel-drive then most likely you’re going to have different tire pressures front to back, come to the open your driver’s door and then, here you can actually check the front and rear tire pressures, and you can see that the it’s just one psi different front supposed to be 35 rear supposed to be 34. Sometimes it’s more than just one psi. but I mean I’ll probably end up going to a gas station, and checking them anyways because when I changed my oil and rotate my tires, it’s usually a good time to just take your check your tire pressure anyway, so I’ll just go change those up a little bit. So I have the correct tire pressures. So yeah so I’ll let you guys know that.