– Hey guys.
Fuller here on Custom Offsets. These are the five mistakes people most commonly make when buying wheels and tires. The first common mistake that people make when they’re buying wheels and tires is they don’t understand their fitment. So we at Custom Offsets have developed a way where you can go in and get your fitment right on the first try, and that’s our Custom Offsets gallery. Some of the major factors that impact fitment are gonna be your width and your offset. Diameter doesn’t matter as much unless you’re really downsizing then you have to make sure you can clear your brakes. To understand your width and your offset, plug it into the gallery, and that’s gonna show you how far your wheels are gonna stick out. If you have a negative 44, it’s gonna stick out more than a negative 24. If you have a positive offset, it’s gonna get sucked in. And then your width obviously also impacts that. A 10 wide is gonna stick out less than a 12 wide. So to understand all of that, that is what the gallery is for. I’m not gonna dive really deep into that. You can go explore it if you want to on your own.
The second mistake people will make when buying wheels and tires are that they assume that all directional wheels are truly directional, and it’s simply not the case. In all cast wheels that we’re aware of, you’re not gonna get a separate left and right set, Which means on one side of the truck you’ll be digging and on the other side you’ll be swooping. So they’re gonna run different directions. Now you can get a truly directional wheel, but you’re gonna have to spend the money to get a forged wheel like an American Force, Specialty Forged, Moto Metal Forged, Fuel Forged, and the list goes on. You’re really gonna shell out some dough. So when it comes to picking out your rubbers, you gotta get something that protects you.
The number three mistake that people make when purchasing wheels and tires is that they forget about their tires. So when it comes to tires, there’s a lot of options out there. Now you can definitely get something cheap if you’re just planning on runnin’ it for the looks and don’t really care how it performs. Or you can get something a little more expensive that’s gonna last you really long and get the mileage out of it. But when it comes down to tires, you get what you pay for. More expensive tires are gonna come with a warranty. Cheap mud tires aren’t gonna have a warranty. They’re gonna be louder, and like I said, it’s just you get what you pay for.
The fourth mistake people make is they think that they have to get the 33×12-1/2. Well you’re wrong. You can go up and down in sizing by using metrics like what this tire is here. So like a 305×55 is gonna be really close to a 33×12-1/2. You’ll see a little bit of height but not quite as wide and easier to fit.
So the fifth mistake people make when they’re buying their wheels and tires is they don’t buy it as a package. What I mean by that is if you go on customoffsets.com, you pick out your wheels, there would be a little button that says, add tires and save more. You actually get a better deal when you bundle these together. Plus with the gallery we’ve already made it so you can get your perfect fitment right on the first try. So go out there, find your fitment, pick up your wheels and tires, get ’em shipped to you.
And that’s the other thing. These are mounted and balanced, and then they ship for free in the lower 48 states. So that means you won’t get your separate wheels and tires, take ’em to Bob’s Discount Tire Shop, and when he goes to put your 12-1/2 wide on your 14 wide, he won’t do that for you. We can. So that all wraps up our five things video. If you’d like to see more in-depth on these topics, you can browse our channel. There’s a couple different options for you to learn more about the offset, more about the tires, and see which is gonna be the best for you. Again if you liked this video, please like it and make sure you subscribe to us. We’ll probably put a big giant circle right here where you click on, or check some of our other videos out either to the left or to the right of me. You can click on those to check out the other videos. Again, make sure you subscribe. Like us on Facebook. Peace.
What’s up my name is kamala Kiel and today I’m going to show you guys how to change oil at a monster speed 3 mine’s a 2013. So it’s the second generation but this is a pretty much the exact same procedure for Gen 2 and Gen 1 mazdaspeed3 is. Because the engines pretty much identical in both of them, so the first thing I did was get the car on jack stands. Then I actually was driving the car earlier, it’s always a good thing to have the car warmed up before you change the oil. It just helps I got solution deposits and the engine and help get all the crud out and it just actually drains a little a lot quicker that way.
So yeah we just get your car on backs and then the next thing we’re going to do is, I’m going to take this underbody panel off for mine, which is a 2013 like I said it actually has an access point for the oil filter and the drain plug is back here. And you can change the oil without taking this off but I know for the older models especially the first generation of the mazdaspeed3. They didn’t have those access points so I’m just going to take the underbody panel off anyways; and also just give you guys better visibility of how to do everything so I actually just finished doing the oil change and tire rotation.
I figured I’d just show you guys everything you’d need now to see you don’t get stuck halfway through realizing you don’t have all the necessary tools so as far as getting the car in the air to change the oil. I just had four jack stands Jack I had some wheel chocks which aren’t completely necessary. But it’s just for safety pretty much. And just have these wood planks that also helped for getting the car on jack stands; and then as far as tools well first of all you know you’re going to need oil so the Massa takes six US courts.
I got 5w30 fully synthetic. I just got that from Advance Auto Parts, and then you’re going to need a new oil filter. When I got this I just always use, I’ve always used the moss that OEM filter. And then every time I go get one, I just also asked them for a crush washer for the drain plug. And they just slip it in there most the time. Sometimes they’ll charge you for it, sometimes they won’t. Depends on the dealership and then the only other thing is, this is old drain bucket. I also got that from Advance Auto Parts.
And then once you’re done do with, your old change you can take that back over there, and dispose of it for free. They’ve never charged me for that; and I don’t think they will. Then also just have brake clean for cleaning off underneath after I change the oil in case things get messy. One of these just for putting the new oil in the car rags safety glasses and flashlight makes second things out easier. And as far as what you’ll do to change the oil after you get it on jack stands the first thing, you’re going to do is take the underbody panel off. Which I just have an electric gun for that. And it’s going to be ten millimeter screws. And then there’s also going to be two plastic rivets on the underbody panel as well. I just used the approach tool like this to get those off so then once you have that off. You’re going to just break the drain plug loose which I just have a normal 3/8 ratchet and a 17 millimeter socket and then when you’re going back on. with the drain plug, just use the normal torque wrench and torqued it 230 foot-pounds and then for your oil filter changing, that I just have a standard oil filter wrench and then going back on I just tighten it down by hand always done it that way never had an issue and then when if you were going to rotate the tires, as well like I do I do that every oil change I just have impact and your lug nuts are going to be a 21 millimeter and then for going back on I have a torque wrench for a hundred foot-pounds.
And then you know you use these needle nose pliers as well. Because when rotating my tires, I didn’t notice that one of them had a nail in there. So to check it before I actually pulled it out I just spray it with soapy water. And if there’re bubbles then you know it’s leaking air if there aren’t. Then you might be okay so that’s when I used the needle nose pliers to pull the screw out and thankfully it wasn’t long. Enough screw to actually puncture the tire and I was good then I just sprayed some or soapy water on there to make sure so uh yeah that’s pretty much everything you’re going to need for changing the oil.
Every time I’m under the car, I put safety glasses on, I don’t always wear safety glasses but when you’re underneath the car that’s more likely when someone’s going to fall on your eyes. So it’s just a good idea unless you don’t care about some getting your eyes. So all these bolts that are holding this underbody panel on are just ten millimeters, so I’ll just fit those off and then the only other thing once you get all those 10 millimeter screws out; it looks like there’s just some it looks like this is – these plastic rivet pieces on each side, so I’ll just pop those out so in the UM on the left and right. They’re kind of like tucked under another plastic piece; just kind of like pull that to the side pop it off come off. So I just took the underbody panel off, like you guys saw the car has been sitting here for a while. So I’m actually just going to run it again. Just to get it warm warmed up again. So just take the car out of first if you had it in first while we let it warm up. I guess pop the hood while waiting for that. I’m going to let the car warm up a little bit before actually drain the oil. So I just shut the car off; just had it running for a little bit to let the anything warm up so before we drain the oil just take off the oil fill cap up here. That’s just going to I mean you can drain the oil without taking that off because I have forgotten before when working on cars. But if you take it off it’s going to drain a lot more quickly. And I don’t know possibly more completely so uh let’s run to the car. I have my old drain bucket and the drain plug is literally just
Right on the back of the oil pan and it’s a 17 millimeter socket and I just have a 3/8 ratchet it’s to break it loose.
So I’m just leaving the old drain out right now before I I’m going to like. Put the drain plug back in before I do the oil filter. Because the plastic drain bucket I have isn’t really big enough to collect oil for both of them. But this is the old filter that you’re going to need that’s the part number there. I just get it from Mazda because also when you do go to the dealer it’s easier to also get. I just always ask him for a crush washer for the drain plug I think these are super important the tightening torque for the drain plug is 23 to 30 foot pounds. So it’s pretty important to have one of these when you were torquing it down. Because it crushes this when you tighten it to spec and if you don’t have one of these then you’re putting a lot of stress on your threads of your drain plug and the threads in your oil pan when you tighten it down to spec so in. my opinion it’s pretty important to have one of these. I don’t know if there’s you can buy them aftermarket you might so the next thing we do is just change that on the drain plug and we’ll tighten that back up. So before I put the drain plug back in, I always like to just wipe down the surface of the oil pan. Where it’s starting into just to get all the any crud off of; there might be and then I always just thread the drain plug in by hand before tightening it down.
So now that I got the drain plug threaded in my hand just torque it down. I know I said, the spec is 23 to 30 I I’m going to torque it down to 30. I just I like going to the higher end of torque specs, just to make sure things are on there tight. So now we, we drain the oil got the drain plug back in there. Tighten it down to spec so now we’ll just change the oil filter. To get this off, I just have a standard oil filter wrench. So I usually just loosen them up and let the oil drain out first usually a little bit in there. So before I go on with the new oil filter, I just like to take this out of the box. And what I’ll do is I’ll just dip my finger in some of the new oil, and just coat the surface of this with it. That’s just uh I don’t know I guess it’s just a good practice to do that way.
when you dry the surface of the oil foot, where the oil filter screws on and then, if this is dry it can just cause the gasket to like kind of bind up when you’re tightening it down; so it’s good to just put a little oil in there to have a little lubrication so when you screw it down all the way, the gaskets laying flat on the oil filter housing surface. It’s the same thing with the oil filter when you look at the water filter housing surface. There’s its just dirty and cruddy so I always just like to wipe it down with a rag before I go on with the new oil filter. And then just screw your new oil filter on. I always screw these on my hand; I mean it looks like there is, I can adapter, you can buy to go on here and I guess you could look up the spec for it but with all filters like these, I’ve always just tighten them down by hand. So the last thing I like to do before putting oil in the car is I just have brake clean. I mean there’s not a lot of oil here, but I just like to clean off. Or any oil was so that way when we put oil in the car and start it just to run oil through the oil filter and everything it’s pretty easy to see if there’s any leaks and what not.
So I just spray down the back here where the old drain plug goes. And then I just spray down and wipe down all around where the oil filter housing is so that way when we start the car, it’s really simple and easy to see if there’s a leak; which the other thing is just make sure you know double gasket the oil filter. It’s pretty rare for the old gasket to stay on there. In most cases it’s a, you know the Lola hasn’t been changed and extremely long time so but just always check for that. It’s pretty obvious if old gaskets get stuck on there so now. We’ll just add a wall to the car and then run it and check the oil level, so this engine takes six US courts. I just get my oil from Advance Auto Parts car takes 5w30. It actually doesn’t call for fully synthetic but I always put fully synthetic especially since it has a turbocharger. So yeah I just get one of the big jugs which is five quarts and then also just you just get extra single quart jug. And that’s all you need so once you get all the oil in the car. And put your wool cap back on you can check the oil before you start the car as well. I mean, one has the right amount of oil but this is a general good practice to check it before you start the car so for accurate readings. I always take the dipstick out first wipe it down then put it back and check it. And it’s above max right now, and when I run the car and have oil go through the old filter and recheck it it’s usually right at max because the oil filter does hold a little bit of oil itself.
So that’s the next thing, we’ll do is just start the car and then come back and recheck the oil level. Before you start the car, just make sure it’s in neutral and then don’t forget to like put your oil cap on or anything like that okay. I usually just let the car run for about a minute, just to give the old good amount of time to just run through the engine and the wool filter and everything. and then we’ll just recheck the dipstick make sure there’s no leaks underneath the car at the drain plug, or the old filter and then we’re pretty much good to put the underbody panel back on; and get the car off jack stands if that’s all you’re going to do. I was also going to rotate the tires as well I um I’ve had this car since it was brand new it only had 50 miles and I’ve changed the oil every 5,000 miles, since I’ve had it and it’s got 65,000 miles now for these cars; that’s a good amount of mileage to do especially with the if you’re using fully synthetic at every oil change. And I’ve actually rotated the tires that every all change as well. It’s just a good idea if you want your all four tires to wear evenly. I guess you could do it every other oil change if you’re doing it more like frequently. But I just stick with the five thousand mile rule and it’s worked out pretty well for me. So I’ll let the car run for about a minute now. We’ll again csy like the holes all about all over the place, that’s why you take it out and wipe it down then put it back in for an accurate reading.
So now the oil is literally right at the max mark. So that’s good, so now the last thing to do is just get the underbody panel back on. Before I did this, I need one of my flashlights. I just look over everything make sure nothing looks off, especially would like the suspension components. I pretty much looked all along the car since you’re not taking it to someone to change the oil, which they would do that look over the whole car for you. It’s a good idea to just do that yourself just to make sure there’s a nothing broken; so you’re not driving around the road with anything dangerous going on. So there’s these little hook parts in the front, here you just want to get it over the little the tab, right there, you just want to get this over that slide that over there. And then with back here as well you just want to get this part underneath here. and then the only other thing is there’s actually this little if you can see this little tab here it actually locks into this piece, so that snaps in right there. And it’s also the so you can see you’re just going to have your chins here those plastic rivets there tense here. And then, same thing you know, just slide this over this with this part on the outside; you have the two other chins and then there’s that um clip on this side that snaps in as well. I always like to just put all my screws in by hand first because I’ve noticed that if you just start putting on in one by one, and tightening them all the way down that sometimes when you get to the opposite corner of the underbody panel, you can’t line it up to thread it in and then you got to go back and undo all the screws. So it’s just a good idea to just thread them all in first then just go around and zip them all down. so now that I’ve got all the ten millimeters screwed in by hand I’m just going to put these plastic rivets back in, so they come apart you can put this part in first. Then push the other part in put that part in first and then that pushes in that part just pushes in, now we’ve got everything in and it’s being held up by all the screws. We can just zip them down as far as the little change goes after you get that underbody panel back on you’re all good to go. All you got to do is just get the car off jack stands.
I think I’m saying I mentioned I was going to do is just rotate the tires because I do that every all change so I’m just going to take care of that now. So y’all can stay tuned if you want to see how I do it; and then maybe do it yourself when it comes to rotating your tires, there are a few things I guess you should just know. I mean if you have a mazdaspeed3, then you should from the factory have the same size tire at all four corners; so just call that a square setup but you can always just double check it should just be 225 all around. And then the other thing is I always rotate the tires front to back some people like to do like a crisscross pattern or even like mix it up like just rotate the rears straight up; but across the fronts when going to the back or vice-versa I’ve never done that.
I just prefer rotating each side, the same way front to back and then for me. I actually have to do that because I have directional tires, so they have to go in the same direction, so there’s really no other way for me to rotate them; but I also just like doing that because when you change the direction of the tires even if it doesn’t say it has to go in a certain direction, that usually causes more tire noise, so it’s a good idea. If you want to prevent that just to keep the tires going in the same direction that you put them on when they were brand new. And so by doing that just rotate them front to back; so then another nice thing when you’re rotating your tires when you’re rolling them to the back. It’s this guy yeah, this is tech. make sure there’s no nails or anything crazy going on. And then also the other nice thing is, once you got the wheels off, you can just inspect your brakes just check the thickness of your pads and everything.
And you can just get better access to check all the suspension components, making sure nothing got damaged or anything when I was rolling this, one of the front I actually didn’t notice, there’s a little nail in; there so what you can do is just spray it with soapy water and see if it’s leaking. So usually it starts bubbling if it’s leaking which doesn’t like it looked like it is. so I’m going to try and pull it out and hope for the best so to get it out I just have some needle nose pliers; and see it’s not super long and after I get the nail out. I’ll just spray the where it was again with soapy water I got pretty lucky with that so when you’re putting the wheels back on. Just be careful not to hit any other studs too hard. You don’t want to mess up any of the threads so I’ll get it on there and then to hold it in place.
I’ll just put thread one lug nut on at the very bottom does ,that’ll prevent it from moving at all if you put it at the top the bottom can still swing out, so I just like putting one at the bottom there and then I just thread all my lug nuts on by hand. Does that way you avoid cross threading anything. and then the last thing to do before I put the wheels on like I have said earlier, I just go around and check the brake pads it’s easier to see him with the wheel . And then just look around the suspension components and everything; so then once you’re done with that I’m just put the wheels on; and then I just have a torque stick. To work with them to 100 foot pounds, I think the spec might be a little bit less. But I’ve always just done 100 and it works out fine because most of the times people are tightening them down with without any torque stick at all. So I just go in a diagonal pattern. I’ll do the bottom here, here and here. So the just so it goes on evenly then once I do that. I’ll actually just go around in a circle one more time, just to like there’s a double check just to make sure we’re all tightened down and that’s it pretty much just do that for all four wheels and you’re done rotating the tires.
See ya, that’s how you change the oil and rotate the tires on the monster speed 3. Hope this was helpful to anybody. Forgot to tell you guys, so after you rotate your tires, if it’s not all-wheel-drive then most likely you’re going to have different tire pressures front to back, come to the open your driver’s door and then, here you can actually check the front and rear tire pressures, and you can see that the it’s just one psi different front supposed to be 35 rear supposed to be 34. Sometimes it’s more than just one psi. but I mean I’ll probably end up going to a gas station, and checking them anyways because when I changed my oil and rotate my tires, it’s usually a good time to just take your check your tire pressure anyway, so I’ll just go change those up a little bit. So I have the correct tire pressures. So yeah so I’ll let you guys know that.
So I love yours today, I am making a short video about tires, we will start with the diagnosis of your tires do you need new ones and choosing the right tire; Recognizing thread patterns fuel efficiency noise measurements and tighter gratings then how to ensure proper fitment of your new tires and finally regular maintenance to ensure that you get the most out of them.
part-1 Do you need new tires so when to replace your tires and the first answer is about tread wear the treads are almost gone you should replace the tires, but just how much should the tire we worn before you make the replacement well you have to look at your local law in Portugal the minimum limit for trucks is one millimeter try the depth and for
light cars such as it’s this 1998 Toyota Corolla is 2 millimeters, so how can you measure the tread well you can go to your tire shop and ask for a measuring device they will even give it to you sometimes there are those plastic measuring things that tire brands will often leave at the tire shops for promotional purposes you can ask for one of these at your local tire shop if not, if you have a caliper like mine; you can use the little tip and then place the tip in the middle of thread and then adjust this so that the tip goes in like so then you can measure the depth still on your tires in this case, it’s well it’s seven millimeters the thread depth this tire said the eight millimeter thread at the time when I
bought them they’ve made approximately ten eleven thousand kilometers, so it’s wearing quite nicely tire manufacturers took care of this not requiring people to be always measuring their tires they decided to put these match marks on the on the tires so that when the tread wear goes all the way into the mark well the tire is ready to be replaced to looser it the purpose of this match marks to cut my spare tire.
And this does not need to be a new tire, of course so I have a rather older one and you can see the three match marks on the on the threads, I still have like one millimeter left week before the thread ends. So this is perfectly okay for a spare tire the point is when there is no distinction between the trial and the marks the tire is under legal limit and
should be replaced it is very important to check the age of the tire because a tire up to two years old at least in Portugal can be sold as a new tire. And in cases where you have a car stored for a long time and only do a few miles every year like my eight-six you want to buy the freshest tire you can get because that’s that will be the main factor for them for having to replace the tires because I am guessing that I will not wear I will not use the whole trial.
We’re in the in the reasonable in the normal lifespan of the tire check the local law in your country to see what the max age of the tire is in Portugal we have no limits like so in your country you may have them but how to check the age of a tire in this this tire you look for a magnet mark is usually an oval mark and it’s usually the last four digits of a very long serial number for example you have this all these letters then you have zero seven ten marks well in this case it indicates that this tire was manufactured in the seventh week of thousand ten for this tire you can see that it was manufactured in the 42nd week of 2011 as for the tires.
I recently put in the eight-six you can see they were manufactured in the 12 20 second week of 2013 so very new tires indeed part to choosing a new tire and what does the series of numbers need well you can look at the size of the tire by looking at these looking for these three numbers you see 195 will be the width of the of the tire width width of the surface here 195 will be this width here fifty-five will be the percentage of the width that makes up the sidewall height for example if you had a no.1 95 55 this
which is this tire the sidewall is like this if you have a 195 45 r15, for example the width will be slimmer so will have a thinner sidewall more sporty look for the final number it is the diameter of your wheel in inches the larger this is the larger will be your wheel so when going to the tire shop, they will always ask you for these three values the tires, I bought for the six are 185 with a slimmer tire on the on the wall 60 a higher percentage of height as I want more comfort in this car 14 width as the rims are smaller in diameter as my garage e6 are also the rating which is an H rating you can see in this table the different speed ratings for all the other tires the tires.
I just showed you more economical are H rated at 210 kph then the V more sports oriented are rated at 240 km/h a word on asymmetric and irrational tires, and all these most tires are designed to be installed only one way for example: this tire is a with this v-shaped pattern can only be installed with v turns with the tips of the v turns toward towards the front this is called a directional time rotation is usually signaled in the sidewall of the tire you will see a market called rotation which indicates that the tire will have to rotate this way in signal here you can see the marks, stating outside as this tire is a symmetric you have different patterns on the outside part and on the inside using a symmetric or directional tires can change your options ,when rotating the tires rotation is made up medically mainly to ensure a uniform spending of the tires lot for you to having to replace the tires on the one axle and keeping the other one without replacing well as symmetrical tires limit my chances of rotating the tires for example as the tire the front tire is marked outside. If I wanted to put those that tire on the back axle but on the other side it would not be correct because the outside would be always would be installed in the rim towards the inside of the car so different wear of this on the tire for example if I hit a tire that was wearing more on the outside and I wanted to rebalance this switch to spend the inside of the tire. It will not be possible because of the asymmetrical pattern of the of the tire, nowadays nearly all tires are asymmetrical and our directional so the you will be limited to moving two tires. From the front to the back in the sides of two meaning you will only be able to exchange the tires in one axle to the other so the possibilities of crisscrossing the tires to even out do we’re on different sides of the tire like I explained you are quite limited.
So if you want to balance the tires and crisscross them you have to look for tires that are not as symmetrical or directional now let’s take a look at the tyre ratings occasion recently you have some standardized classification first fuel efficiency on the left then wet braking distance on the right and then the noise level of the tire is it worth it to invest invest a bit more in the tire for a better fuel efficiency.Well it depends on your goal this diagram was taken from the Enochian manufacturers website and you can see the difference between the all the marks in the tires.
We can see that the A is the reference point and then the increase in fuel that will incur as the grade of the tire is gets worse you can see a clear difference from the a2g viewing fuel consumption which amounts to more than half a liter per 100 kilometers but you also have to take into account another aspect I’ve been talking with some shops that’s all sell tires they say that the it’s not just looking at the marks.
For example, fuel efficiency is an example of this because a tire that has less rolling resistance that will save you fuel will not have the same softness and the same comfort and adherence to the road as a tire that is fully oriented towards ecological purposes only so you may buy a tire that is 2 to plasticy that’s what they determined that they use its place not soft rubber is more like a hard plastic compound it will sacrifice some performance and some comfort in exchange for a better fuel efficiency so, I recommend that you take all this into account if you’ve not had all to take have a rough ride in your new tires and also depends on your goal because if you want snappy response and if you like to take turns fast you may want to get a softer rubber compound that will have a
worse mark in the fuel consumption here you can see Toyo r8 8/8 which are a very used track tire and you can see the fuel efficiency marks are quite bad another important mark will the wet braking distance that’s what they put in the labels of the tires and the the wet braking distance ranges from also from G to A a being the best this chart shows the difference between the different two tires in a braking in wet from the 50 miles per hour until the full stop she’s very important because it can mean the difference between hitting somebody or not for example as well as an obstacle so the difference between an a mark tire, and ajit mark tire will be 18 meters of stopping distance that’s a lot the explanation that was given to me.
About this is that rubber is always evolving and they are making always making new compounds to make the white braking distance better. And also fuel efficiency third ark will be noise rolling noise well nobody likes noise and nowadays there is a rule that specifies the maximum rolling noise for a tire. And you will see that in the classification there are three levels you will see the three waves under the icon for the efficiency, they range from one wave from for the quietest tire to three waves for the lowest one noise rolling noise of the 69 versus a tire that will have really nice of 72 the audible noise will actually be double; that’s a very important aspect to have in mind because the when you are rolling down the road you will notice the rolling tire noise and it will be quite annoying sometimes are very noisy they look like broken bearings in the in the road but actually it’s tire that’s making all that noise.
For example, the European Union is specifies maximum noise levels for your tires and they would have to comply or else the car will not be on the road. Well that’s what he’s been stating with what is being stated by tire manufacturers, but you know their goal they’re always trying to sell more tires and more expensive ones so take into account the money they cost.
And if you can get a quieter tire get it, the result of difference between 69 decibels and 72 decibels now the more subjective part of these analysis which is when you look at the tire what does the thread tell you well you can see for example a nice tire this has a v-shaped pattern and what this does is, it increases the grip of the tire on the surface of the road how does the tire grip the road well the road, when the tire presses against the road the these grooves that’s the importance of the thread these grooves they break apart and then they come together as the wire rips the road so the tire is constantly gripping, like so imagine my fingers are the threads and when the tire goes against the road it prices and the tight the threads open up and then when the when the force of the tire comes into full contact with rod they grip.
Again so they are always doing this all over the surface of the road and in the case of the tire that has a v-shaped pattern the grip will also occur diagonally that’s why the v-shaped pattern is usually better of course this is not account with the count for better rubber quality because a v-shaped pattern with there by the rubber quality will be bad just the same that’s the first aspect so about v-shaped patterns because they may look good but they may not be the best solution for you. Depending on your goal for example, if you want very good fuel economy you will see that v-shaped pattern tires will not have the best marks that’s the pattern, now when looking at the ribs you see this the center rape this century will is marketed by the hankook manufacture, which is the people that made this tire as something that will enhance the feeling of the feeling of the road let the dire the driver will receive; when driving the car equipped with these tires, so the center rim is what gives you driving feedback. Then you have the side ribs this give you lateral grip of course when you are cornering hard this will help you get the better grip on the road, and also prevent sidewall compression which occurs when you are a hard cornering this tire is marketed as a ultra high performance tire by Hankook.
These are efficiency oriented tires from Dunlop they are the Dunlop blue responds the tires a rather new model by the WAP, and you can see the very large difference between this tire and the one I just showed you which is in my other car in the other case we had the t-shaped pattern and a middle Center rib on the tire in this case, we have larger sidewalls they have removed the middle rail so the according to Hancock the feeling and the feeling on the on the wheel to precise steering that will have the those tires will have is not present no it’s not as present in this one however this case we have three large threads that will help with the noise some very quiet tire I have driven this in the in the highway and it’s very good. It’s actually better than my former tires no v-shape means less grip but lower noise and better efficiency as the grip on the tire will not grip as much on the road in the non-straight on the rolling resistance that so it so that you know this tire is right that see in consumption which is a compromise between a very consuming tire but very gripping also like the v-shaped ones I just showed you and a very economy oriented tire with very well less grip on the dry as for the braking distance; these tires are very good they have a marks of B from in the scale from A to G, on the wet braking distance so I thought, they would be a quite a good compromise what to do after you purchase your tires.
Wheel balancing is made by placing these weights on the inside of the rim or on the outside but in this case, it’s a special rim and now, I lightweight alloy and they put this on a special machine that rotates the wheel and tells them exactly in the wheel surface should they place the weights in order for the wheel to become balanced and not to jerk the wheel around at high speed it’s very important to check for a steering wheel vibration when you first install the tires.
Because they will calibrate the tires they will balance them like I showed you with all those weights but even when you put new tires in they may adjust to the rim and you feel a short a slight vibration when you are driving at hundred kilometers per hour or higher I had it on the AIDS except first I was with worried that it might be some mechanical issue but I took it back to the tire shop they took us to the wheels. They rebalance them and as dire have already adjusted to the total rim since it was new for new tyres resolve a problem.
And I very happy with the tires, usually when you install your tires; It’s also very important to have your wheel lined the steering aligned because it will prevent and even wear on the tyre it’s no point in putting new tires if your steering is not correctly calibrated and you will wear more on one side than on the other and we have to replace the tires prematurely it’s periodically check for the pressure of the tires is asked in the tire shop, what’s use the recommended pressure for your car or actually you can browse around the web and look for the pressure party for your type, usually you use the your car’s model and usually lighter cars like the eight-six will have lower tire pressures for example this Toyota Corolla g6 art it weighs around 1000, and 300 kilograms so this has a high pressure of 2.2 on the all the wheels the eight-six for example which weighs much less weighs approximately a thousand kilograms will who will have tire pressures of run 2.0 or 1.9, spending on your go and the cargo you are transporting for example if you have higher loads on your car and on the back for example if you are always carrying three people in the back and the whole trunk you may decide to increase slightly the tire pressure like the point one bar for these for these cases.
Okay so one of the first things you got to do is get the connector weight from the wheel bearing circuit which it is connected to this harness over here and then it’s actually stuck in place right there, so wear that away you get inter out of this part there’s just a to pop tabs on that connector then the story goes to the side , okay so I’m going to do next actually just connect the brake caliper uses a t-55 socket. So now, we remove the brake caliper pins with the t-55 Torx bit once you get them free does anybody have a stuck slide, so you need to take an 18 millimeter wrench these will be pretty stuck on there so you get to break them loose, using a ratchet wrench what I did to loosen them up. He’s my 18 ml and I locked my big wrench together with it to create a long extension to break it loose .
Set the bolt the side move caliper bracket the rubber is either going to be stuck on or it’s going to pop off ,so easy thing to do just take a hammer in between the studs and it shouldn’t bring i t free, pop off our cap to expose the axle nut. Sowe’re just take a small screwdriver kind of give it a wedge effect around. Here’s a twisting motion with a flat belly to the screwdriver and they’ll pop out and exposing the our 36 millimeter, axle nut so now I usually use an impact to remove the axle nut but if you don’t have one available what you can do is use pry bar and let’s get some using a breaker bar to remove it you can just go like this so it loosens up and just do that but, I’m going to get the air tool out and remove this speed up the video.
So when you’re going to remove the barrier and make sure you boil this is w4t PB Blaster something and lube up the bearing get the soak in as you’re working I get those bolts out I get off on the backside flip it up that way. you’ll notice yeah three bolts take out, one right there one at the top and one on the other side one on the other sideof that location there’s a 10 ml bolt to hold this bracket and the brake hose on and this just gets it completely out of your way to worry about the caliper being here. You just lift that away also there’s one up here that’s already been removed so we’ll take the caliper tuck it up under and set it away so I’ll get damaged and so then if any easiest way to do this Xu to remove the upper ball joint so it’s an 18 millimeter wrench.
They’re free just hit it right on the this gives you clear access to the wheel bearing bolts specially this like 15 mil and three inch extension is a 15 mil socket you’re going to need to remove the bolts okay so this upper one is the one I’ll take you forever if you don’t remove the ball joint the knuckle and it’s free so here at your progress of the way.
so now we’re going to go after this 15 1 bolt is free care of trouble getting the bolt out just push forward on the axle. You should be able to slip it out so technically the wheel bearing is free-floating this is where I would hook the upper ball drain back up because you’re either gonna be hammering on this it comes out but it’s really stuck in there usually unless they’ve been replaced and anti-seize has been an appropriate place now this is where air hammer comes into play it’s not moving you gotta give it some coaxing the high in the brake shield. See that we are making progress we’ll try not to destroy the dust shield.
There’s a gap there so you don’t want air hammer if you’re hammering on the ball holes try to get ahead of them. I just ran along the edge and pretty much over there there’s your berry and if you could have saved it. Your dust shield the Exel through I slide the hole to the wheel bearing through just so I can line them up wouldn’t your new wheel bearing usually comes with a sensor and I take the backing plate and I put anti-seize all over the surrounding area that way it.
Comes out again easier and inside the splines of the axis of the X okay it, sees so what we’re oing to do now is line this up you always line up the sensor shield towards the front of the truck at upward angle so then get it lined up push it a little bit and I start trying to get hard because things will probably fight you be at an angle to try to get some of the bolts thread and started I’m saying on the lures you want to draw it in evenly if you can you can get them and tell the knuckles back in place.
So now to get the upper ball joint in place see this is going to want to fight, you you’re going to have the nut ready for the ball joint take a pry tool go under the frame and on the upper control arm and just uh push it through to get the threads on there and on the upper water it a little bit
okay now that this is in place go back and take your 15 minutes, and really tighten this upper bolt push back axle a little bit get your wrench in there just get that nice and tight along with your other okay same thing with the other take our 80 ml wrench and label reins in place or take your HTML wrench and finish tightening down involvement axle nut which gets tighten to 177 foot-pounds usually the pry bar but breaker bar will work on me. And I use it to the studs
right but the x-amount torch. You can take your seal cap tap that back in place let’s seal it up okay so now we’re going to do is take our light Cal for that may look like it’s hanging by the brake hose in the video; but it’s not being supported okay these pieces in the cardboard make sure it’s back in place that’s what I do is now put in a cult . So now I got the brake hose back in place you can place your ABS connector back up and if you got any spots with this mode
go back in I mean zip ties work assembled.. yeah I’m John the other guy!!
Check out his channel by clicking on his link: https://goo.gl/hsKUCK