Transcript from Joe The Auto Guy
Okay so one of the first things you got to do is get the connector weight from the wheel bearing circuit which it is connected to this harness over here and then it’s actually stuck in place right there, so wear that away you get inter out of this part there’s just a to pop tabs on that connector then the story goes to the side , okay so I’m going to do next actually just connect the brake caliper uses a t-55 socket. So now, we remove the brake caliper pins with the t-55 Torx bit once you get them free does anybody have a stuck slide, so you need to take an 18 millimeter wrench these will be pretty stuck on there so you get to break them loose, using a ratchet wrench what I did to loosen them up. He’s my 18 ml and I locked my big wrench together with it to create a long extension to break it loose .
Set the bolt the side move caliper bracket the rubber is either going to be stuck on or it’s going to pop off ,so easy thing to do just take a hammer in between the studs and it shouldn’t bring i t free, pop off our cap to expose the axle nut. Sowe’re just take a small screwdriver kind of give it a wedge effect around. Here’s a twisting motion with a flat belly to the screwdriver and they’ll pop out and exposing the our 36 millimeter, axle nut so now I usually use an impact to remove the axle nut but if you don’t have one available what you can do is use pry bar and let’s get some using a breaker bar to remove it you can just go like this so it loosens up and just do that but, I’m going to get the air tool out and remove this speed up the video.
So when you’re going to remove the barrier and make sure you boil this is w4t PB Blaster something and lube up the bearing get the soak in as you’re working I get those bolts out I get off on the backside flip it up that way. you’ll notice yeah three bolts take out, one right there one at the top and one on the other side one on the other sideof that location there’s a 10 ml bolt to hold this bracket and the brake hose on and this just gets it completely out of your way to worry about the caliper being here. You just lift that away also there’s one up here that’s already been removed so we’ll take the caliper tuck it up under and set it away so I’ll get damaged and so then if any easiest way to do this Xu to remove the upper ball joint so it’s an 18 millimeter wrench.
They’re free just hit it right on the this gives you clear access to the wheel bearing bolts specially this like 15 mil and three inch extension is a 15 mil socket you’re going to need to remove the bolts okay so this upper one is the one I’ll take you forever if you don’t remove the ball joint the knuckle and it’s free so here at your progress of the way.
so now we’re going to go after this 15 1 bolt is free care of trouble getting the bolt out just push forward on the axle. You should be able to slip it out so technically the wheel bearing is free-floating this is where I would hook the upper ball drain back up because you’re either gonna be hammering on this it comes out but it’s really stuck in there usually unless they’ve been replaced and anti-seize has been an appropriate place now this is where air hammer comes into play it’s not moving you gotta give it some coaxing the high in the brake shield. See that we are making progress we’ll try not to destroy the dust shield.
There’s a gap there so you don’t want air hammer if you’re hammering on the ball holes try to get ahead of them. I just ran along the edge and pretty much over there there’s your berry and if you could have saved it. Your dust shield the Exel through I slide the hole to the wheel bearing through just so I can line them up wouldn’t your new wheel bearing usually comes with a sensor and I take the backing plate and I put anti-seize all over the surrounding area that way it.
Comes out again easier and inside the splines of the axis of the X okay it, sees so what we’re oing to do now is line this up you always line up the sensor shield towards the front of the truck at upward angle so then get it lined up push it a little bit and I start trying to get hard because things will probably fight you be at an angle to try to get some of the bolts thread and started I’m saying on the lures you want to draw it in evenly if you can you can get them and tell the knuckles back in place.
So now to get the upper ball joint in place see this is going to want to fight, you you’re going to have the nut ready for the ball joint take a pry tool go under the frame and on the upper control arm and just uh push it through to get the threads on there and on the upper water it a little bit
okay now that this is in place go back and take your 15 minutes, and really tighten this upper bolt push back axle a little bit get your wrench in there just get that nice and tight along with your other okay same thing with the other take our 80 ml wrench and label reins in place or take your HTML wrench and finish tightening down involvement axle nut which gets tighten to 177 foot-pounds usually the pry bar but breaker bar will work on me. And I use it to the studs
right but the x-amount torch. You can take your seal cap tap that back in place let’s seal it up okay so now we’re going to do is take our light Cal for that may look like it’s hanging by the brake hose in the video; but it’s not being supported okay these pieces in the cardboard make sure it’s back in place that’s what I do is now put in a cult . So now I got the brake hose back in place you can place your ABS connector back up and if you got any spots with this mode
go back in I mean zip ties work assembled.. yeah I’m John the other guy!!
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